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When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.